Soaring up to 4,000m, the ancient Aberdare Range is strangely unknown. Its forested slopes harbour ravines and dramatic waterfalls a fantastic variety of wildlife – including monkeys, elusive golden cats and over 250 species of birds – while the moorlands are a high-altitude wonderland of hardy Afro-Alpine vegetation. The altitude provides respite from the heat – and the bugs.
Amboseli is the setting of Kenya’s classic postcard scene: the snow-capped peak of Kilimanjaro looming over huge herds of elephants striding across the plains below. You’ll find the big five here, along with hippopotamus and birdlife in the soggy swamplands, fed by the mountain’s meltwater. Walking safaris and nighttime game drives are permitted in the conservancies bordering the park.
Kenya’s coastline can rival that of any tropical island – from the luxurious resorts to secluded keys, sprinkled in the warm Indian Ocean. Diani’s 10km of white sands are a classic, palm-fringed retreat – check out the reefs and the colobus monkeys. Lamu offers archaeological sites as well as beaches, and Malindi – the Italian favourite – has a cluster of affordable hotels, restaurants and bars.
The 9,600km-long Rift Valley has shattered Africa, leaving behind a trail of lakes, islands and lush oases. Eight lakes sprang up in Kenya; Naivasha has over 400 species of birds, flitting about amongst the hippos, Elementaita is a deep blue soda lake, attracting white pelicans, and Baringo has a floating restaurant. Geological activity continues in the Rift, with hot springs and steam vents bubbling from the deep.
One of the Rift Valley’s eight lakes, Nakuru entices a huge variety of wildlife to its shimmering waters, including numerous predators, giraffe and buffalo and both black and white rhino. But it’s the birdlife that provided Nakuru’s most fantastic scenes; the lake periodically turns a soft pink as some two million flamingos descend onto its algae-rich waters, just one of the 450 species of bird found here.
This national reserve is synonymous with both wildlife and the Maasai tribes. A stage for the Great Migration, the Mara sees some two million wildebeest and zebras spilling into it from Jun-Oct – if they survive the precarious Mara River crossing. The surrounding Maasai conservancies give the chance to spend time with this fascinating people, with bushwalks, village visits and warrior training lessons!
Mombasa’s history is as colourful and complex as its vibrant markets. This island city dates back almost 1,000 years, with 16th century forts, Swahili architecture and Islamic mosques. But above all, Mombasa is a gateway to Kenya’s coast – including its own Nyali Beach and Mombasa Marine National Park. Glass-bottom boat tours, diving with whale sharks, snorkelling and fishing are all within easy reach.
Africa’s second highest mountain soars to 5,199m, capped with glaciers. You’ll find few visitors in this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, despite the gorgeous flora and wildlife – a beautiful contrast to Kilimanjaro’s barren yet busy slopes. Surrounding villages offer an insight into life in the shadow of the mountain. The nearby Mau-Mau Cave – a national monument – sheltered the Freedom Fighters in the 1950s..
Far from the big name attractions of the south, Samburu receives few visitors; it feels like a true African wilderness. The Ewaso Ng’iro River nourishes Samburu’s scruffy vegetation and abundant wildlife – Elsa the Lioness was raised here, the famous star of Born Free. Lion, cheetah and leopard roam the park, best seen during sunrise or sunset game drives.
Tsavo East and West form Kenya’s most expansive protected area, sheltering around a third of the country’s elephants. Tsavo West is the best bet for wildlife – lured here by the springs, rivers and rapids as well as swamplands and lakes. Look out for hippos and crocs, as well as buffalo, black rhino, lion and leopard. The jagged lava landscapes of the Chyulu Hills create a surreal backdrop.
Kenya may be one of Africa’s top tourist destinations – but the centre and north remain delightfully untouched. Laikipia is a patchwork of communal conservancies, where local communities manage the land. As well as protecting wildlife – notably 100 black rhino plus rare wild dogs – the lodges all employ and train local people, and feed are reinvested back into communities and conservation.
A narrow gap in the dramatic cliffs of the Rift Valley gave this park its sinister name – but it could well have been influenced by the geothermal activity beneath the ground. Hot springs, geysers, extinct volcanoes and volcanic plugs create a surreal landscape. Birds of prey – including the rare lammergeyer – can be found here, and a Maasai Cultural Centre reveals the life of the surrounding communities.
